Bogotá — Where Altitude Meets Attitude

Arriving in Central America in mid-March, I thought I’d be greeted by warm, pleasant weather.

One of my travel packing goals is to bring just the right number of layers for the destination and to actually use everything I pack. So, with a bit of hesitation and following our local partners’ recommendation, I tucked in a sweater and decided to put on a thin down jacket at the last minute, wondering if I was going to miss my goal.

I stepped outside the airport in Bogotá expecting a warm, humid whiff of air. It was quite the opposite! I whispered to myself, “No wonder my driver is wearing a sweater and a jacket.”

Despite its position just 318 miles north of the equator, Bogotá isn’t your typical tropical city. The capital of Colombia is a dynamic metropolis nestled high in the Andes at an altitude of 8,660 feet (2,640 meters) above sea level, making it one of the highest capital cities in the world. Bogotá is densely populated, where sharp-edged skyscrapers stand shoulder to shoulder with beautifully preserved colonial architecture. And yet, just steps away from the alleyways, you can still feel hints of the country’s challenging past. It’s a nation in the process of healing.

Did you know Bogotá is an emerging foodie destination? From vibrant street fare to fine dining experiences, the city showcases an impressive range of culinary creativity rooted in local ingredients. Since the 2016 Peace Agreement, many regions once inaccessible are now contributing a bounty of local produce. At the same time, Colombian chefs returning from abroad bring refined techniques and global influences, giving rise to a thriving, fusion-driven food scene that is uniquely Bogotá.

Beyond the plate, Bogotá is a dynamic metropolis where tradition and modernity coexist in harmony. Its skyline is a beautiful mix of colonial facades and cutting-edge architecture, reflecting both the city’s rich culture and its forward-thinking spirit. It’s also recognized as a smart city as Bogotá is also a leader in sustainable urban development, incorporating green technologies into its growing infrastructure. In the more residential neighborhoods, life unfolds at a relaxed pace on a stroll, I noticed quite a few dog-walking services and friendly locals out enjoying their daily routines.

This is where I learned Colombians’ resilience and passion for peace.

I’d like to share a powerful story I encountered while touring through the streets of Barrio Egipto, a neighborhood once considered untouchable, gripped by violence, where entry was only permitted if you were part of a gang. I joined a local graffiti tour, expecting to see a lot of colorful murals. “Yay, photo opportunities!” But what made it extraordinary wasn’t just the murals, it was the storytellers.

We were introduced to our guide, a man with sharp eyes and a calm presence, a community leader now heading the tour called Breaking Borders. We had more than one guide with us and their stories unfolded as we walked; former gang members turned proud voices of change. The murals were more than art; they were a living, breathing chapter of Barrio Egipto’s journey.

There’s something profoundly moving about seeing a place through the eyes of someone who has lived every corner of its history and continues with their lives in the community. What once was a story of survival is now one of transformation, painted with vibrant hope.

So, if you find yourself in Bogotá, don’t miss the chance to witness a journey into the human spirit wrapped in art, courage, and the belief that change is always possible.

The Coffee Region — The Art of Stillness

“It’s magical,” we were told. Misty clouds rising into the sky, drifting over rolling hills dotted with the world’s tallest palm trees, the wax palms. And magical it is.

Colombia’s Coffee Region, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011, truly lives up to its reputation. Towering above the landscape, the Quindío wax palm, the country’s national tree, can reach breathtaking heights. Sadly, this majestic tree is now considered endangered. Habitat loss, overexploitation, and disease are the primary culprits. Deforestation, especially for cattle grazing and land clearing, has taken a serious toll. Historically, wax extracted from mature palms was used to make candles and torches, but it takes up to 50 years for a wax palm to fully mature.

We drove up to a farmhouse and visited the family over a cup of afternoon tea, looking over the hills with wax palms as the clouds moved into the hills, where we found a four-leaf clover. It must be the beginning of something fortunate.

During my visit, I met a couple who run a small restaurant and have turned their property into a wax palm nursery. They invite guests to plant a baby wax palm and bless it with hopes for the future. I planted one myself and named it Kayo-chan, Little Kay. I hope it thrives.

The next morning began with freshly pressed coffee and a local breakfast featuring arepas, a beloved staple, served with homemade jam and eggs of our desired style and local fruits. It was a delicious and satisfying meal to start the day.

Our first stop was at a local café in Salento. As we settled into our seats, a barista approached with a latte art tool in hand and began creating intricate designs right at our table. He’s known as one of the town’s best latte artists. My coffee featured a lion with a curly mane and it was almost too beautiful to sip. The coffee itself was a variety known as Geisha, which is not related to Japanese geisha, but named after the Gori Gesha forest in Ethiopia, where the beans originated. It’s considered one of the highest-quality Colombian coffees.

After waking up with that lion-faced coffee, we headed to a first-generation coffee farm. Our SUV took us as far as a small town, where we transferred into a Jeep Willys. I joked that it was beginning to feel like an Indiana Jones adventure. Well, the joke was on me! The ride twisted and bumped over steep, narrow, unpaved hills. I should have dressed the part. The driver seemed to enjoy the ride, and honestly, so did I.

Eventually, we arrived at a beautifully manicured cottage known as Paradise Farm. We were warmly welcomed by the entire family who runs it, each member playing a unique role in their many operations.

We learned how to brew coffee in traditional Colombian style which is an experience worlds apart from the grab-and-go culture of Starbucks. We savored every step, every sip. Lunch followed, served buffet-style. Though chicharrón (fried pork belly) wasn’t on my pescatarian menu, they thoughtfully prepared a variety of vegetable dishes and a comforting plant-based soup. I was well fed, both in body and spirit.

Conversations flowed easily, as if we’d all gathered for a family meal. We shared stories, listened, and laughed. And after the meal, we learned the deeper story of Paradise Farm.

They taught us the full journey of coffee farming—selecting beans, planting, pruning, picking, processing, and brewing. Their knowledge came not from tradition, but from necessity. Just ten years ago, the family was forced to flee their former home due to violent unrest. They arrived here with nothing but each other, discovering an abandoned structure and slowly transforming it into their home and livelihood.

The work is labor-intensive, and like all farming, the harvest is at the mercy of the climate. Yet they pressed on. Today, they not only run a thriving coffee operation but also offer hospitality services. A couple of guest rooms now overlook the hills, welcoming visitors into their peaceful refuge.

We sat on their porch, watching brilliant birds flit among colorful flowers, listening to the sounds of the countryside. It was hard to imagine the hardship they endured. The name Paradise Farm fits perfectly.

Medellín — Resilience Reimagined

Medellín is a true cultural mosaic.

Its public transportation system is state-of-the-art—an interconnected network of trains, buses, and gondolas that makes navigating the city a breeze. I rode the gondola portion of the system, which felt like something out of a ski resort. It ran smoothly and efficiently, offering sweeping views of the city below. Like any metro system around the world, the lines are color-coded and easy to figure out.

Our next destination was Comuna 13, once known as one of the most dangerous neighborhoods in Medellín. Houses seem to cling to one another on steep hillsides, a testament to the dense urban sprawl and complex history of the area. But Comuna 13 today tells a very different story: resilience, rebirth, and community strength.

Although it’s become quite touristy, the real magic lies in the stories behind the street art. I joined a guided graffiti tour and am so glad I did. My guide had deep knowledge of each mural and pointed out small but powerful details that could easily go unnoticed. Yes, the photos are stunning but understanding the meanings behind the vibrant colors and bold shapes reveals layers of history, struggle, and hope. I can’t recommend hiring an expert guide enough, it truly makes the experience.

We also visited the Casa de la Memoria museum, a powerful and moving space dedicated to remembering Colombia’s armed conflict. Though modest in size, the museum’s exhibits offer a profound reflection and photographs on the country’s past, created with the intent of preventing such pain from repeating. It left a deep impression.

The next day, we ventured out to the small village of Santa Elena, home to Colombia’s traditional flower farmers. These farmers do more than grow beautiful blooms. They are the creators of elaborate floral arrangements carried on wooden frames called silletas. Originally, these chair-like structures were used to carry people on someone’s back. Today, they’re transformed into canvases of floral art for the famous Feria de las Flores (Flower Festival).

Traditionally, lady farmers walked down from the hills to Medellín with these massive arrangements strapped to their backs. A journey that could take up hours at a brisk pace for a trek that stretched nearly 40 miles, all while carrying the weight of a flower-laden silleta! I tried lifting a smaller version myself and could barely take a few steps. We were welcomed into the home of one of the most decorated flower farmers in the region. Her cottage walls were proudly lined with medals, plaques, and awards. Her craft continues through two younger generations of her family.

After that visit, we drove to climb La Piedra del Peñol, the Rock of Guatapé. As someone who loves sweeping views from high places, there was no hesitation on my part: over 700 steps to the top? Absolutely.

The story behind this towering rock is as incredible as the view. A local farmer, Luis Eduardo Villegas López, became fascinated with the monolith. Driven by a vision, he climbed it using sticks, taking five days to reach the top. When he finally saw the breathtaking panorama, he knew it had to be shared. After several visits to the site, against his wife’s better judgment and likely a few heated conversations to pay for their family’s immediate needs, he invested in the rock. Once she saw the success of his business, she just nodded and smiled. Today, the business is booming and his family still manages the site.

And what a vision it was. The view from the summit offers a 360-degree panorama of Embalse del Peñol, a turquoise reservoir speckled with lush green islands and framed by the Colombian countryside. If the idea of 700+ steps feels daunting, a short helicopter ride is also an option. I suggest arranging the ride in advance.

View from the top of the Rock of Guatapé

After the climb, we enjoyed a peaceful lunch at a floating restaurant, away from the crowds, surrounded by water and serenity while looking at the Rock of Guatapé

Our final stop was the charming town of Guatapé, famous for its brightly painted homes adorned with zócalos, colorful bas-relief depictions of animals, people, and everyday scenes. It’s a feast for the eyes and also a fantastic place to shop for local art and sweets. Every corner offers another perfect photo opportunity.

We closed our time in Medellín with a cooking class hosted by a micro farmer who, to me, is more of a farming artist. Her hillside property is lovingly cared for and planted with local herbs and produce. We harvested ingredients directly from her garden and cooked an exquisite lunch together: salad, fried fish with caramelized leeks in lime sauce, mango ceviche, broccolini, and a homemade dessert. Every dish told a story of place and care.

Medellín isn’t just a destination. It’s a masterclass in transformation. It humbles and energizes you in equal measure. Like any major city, it has areas best avoided, but with the guidance of a well-trained local expert and a knowledgeable driver, your experience becomes not only safe but deeply enriching.

Cartagena — The Elegance and Endurance

Cartagena is a city where elegance and layered history walk hand in hand.

I stayed in a beautifully restored colonial mansion that once belonged to a church pastor and his leadership. Situated at sea level along Colombia’s Caribbean coast, Cartagena is warm and humid, so lightweight summer clothes and a room with air conditioning are a must.

The city’s famed walled center is a living tribute to Spanish colonial wealth and architecture. Graceful buildings with colorful facades are adorned with cascading bougainvillea, and wisteria arches frame cobblestone alleys like natural gateways to the past. As you stroll through the streets, you’ll find local artists putting the finishing touches on their vibrant works, adding a modern sight to this historic setting.

Our guide treated us with a local gelato to cool down. I chose a rich chocolate and coffee bean flavor that was just the indulgence I needed. Sitting at a street-side café, I could almost imagine myself in colonial attire, holding a parasol, watching the city pass by.

But Cartagena isn’t only about charm and beauty. It’s also a city with a complex past. As one of the major ports for the transatlantic slave trade, it carries a deep and painful history. This reminder of Cartagena’s darker legacy is ever-present, woven into its resilience. That, for me, became the theme of my entire Colombian journey: the strength and passion of people who believe in the future of their country.

One of the most memorable experiences I had in Cartagena was a cooking class at a delightful local restaurant called Oh La La. Chef Christine was nothing short of inspiring. She doesn’t cook just by following recipes. She researches the history, the cultural context, and the chemistry of every ingredient. I learned how to crack open a coconut and use its meat, and I was let in on the secret ingredients that elevate her fish ceviche and mojitos to something unforgettable. Her energy and deep culinary knowledge were absolutely contagious. I also learned there are quite a few Japanese words and tools that are a part of their culture. I’m already looking forward to seeing her again and chatting over a mojito or two.

For beach lovers, the nearby Rosario Islands offer a luxurious escape. With coral reefs, clear waters, and a slower pace, they’re ideal for a day or several of sun-soaked relaxation.

The Untamed Frontier — Llanos & the Amazon

While I didn’t make it this time, I left with a promise: to return for Colombia’s most remote treasures.

In the Llanos, Colombia’s vast eastern plains stretch beyond the horizon in golden waves of grass and wetlands. Often referred to as South America’s answer to the African savanna, this region is rich in wildlife and raw beauty. Here, you can track capybaras waddling through the marshes, spot scarlet ibises and anacondas, and ride horseback alongside authentic llanero cowboys who are keepers of a ranching tradition that dates back generations. Days are filled with exploration; nights bring campfires, stories, and sleeping under a canopy of stars in a private eco-ranch, with only the sounds of frogs and night birds as your lullaby. It’s wild, remote, and utterly unforgettable.

In the Amazon, life flows at the rhythm of the river. Venturing into Colombia’s Amazon isn’t just a journey—it’s a shift in perspective. One of the most immersive ways to explore this mystical world is by taking a river cruise. Gliding along winding tributaries aboard a boutique expedition vessel, you'll pass mirror-still waters reflecting tangled vines and towering trees. Each bend reveals something wondrous: pink river dolphins breaching the surface, curious sloths nestled in the canopy, or a flash of color from a toucan in flight. Stops include visits to Indigenous communities, where centuries-old traditions are shared with grace and pride, giving you insight into a way of life deeply connected to the forest.

Evenings on board the cruise are a chance to unplug and reflect as you are surrounded by the ambient chorus of the jungle, under skies lit with stars brighter than you’ve ever seen. For those craving adventure with comfort, luxury Amazon cruises offer private suites, gourmet meals, and expert naturalist guides who help you understand this complex ecosystem without ever losing the sense of wonder.

Whether horseback riding across the Llanos or drifting through the timeless Amazon, these experiences are not just trips, they’re transformations. They remind us how vast and varied the world is, and how much magic lies in places still wild.

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